Monday, August 13, 2007

Day 66 - A traveller's retreat on Gulang Yu (Gulang Island)

Rousing in the late morning after a very satisfying sleep, we set about with a little future planning. In China it is next to impossible to call a train or bus station and get anything that resembles an answer to any of the questions you want to know, so for the adlibers it means actually going to the station and dealing with the lines in person. Today we started at the long distance bus station and finding that only one bus would depart for our next desired destination and our semi trusty guide telling us that the trains were cheaper and faster we headed 20 minutes across town to the train station. There, Adam hung out in the massive lines that stretched out the doors and Liv went to the information line which is normally helpful than the ticket lines. The information line lady was ultra helpful in this case and went out of her way to get the tickets for us. Liv returned to the line and waved tickets at Adam who was over the moon to leave the line behind - after having only moved a few metres in about 20 minutes.

Once outside we realised that the tickets were cheaper (just) but took just as long, and left much later in the evening meaning we would be put under huge pressure to make any connecting buses to our remote village destination. On top of all this it also meant dealing with the train environment, which is a phenomenal amout of work compared to the bus station. Adam decided to try and take the tickets back and went up to the counter and talked to the same lady ... well said the few lines Liv had prompted him to use as she stayed (semi-hiding) with the packs.

Adam eventualy returned with most of the money refunded - it cost us 24 yuan (NZ $4). Climbing back on the local bus we returned to the long distance bus station we had initially started at two hours ago - we were hungry and it was now 2pm! Back in the much shorter lines of the bus station we got different information from what we had received two hours ago (probably would have bought the tickets back then!) and with much relief we soon had tickets in our hands again!

With most of the day's tasks done we set out to catch - you guessed it - another half hour bus across town to get to the ferry terminal that links Ximen to the Island of Gulang Yu - the best part of our ferry ride to the island, was that it was free!
Ariving on the the car-less Gulang Yu was a huge relief but this was short lived as we began wandering, around what we thought was a small island, in the search of accommodation. We arrived at the Youth Hostel to be told that there were no beds, and so the search continued! After finding many places full, we eventually we found a hotel with dorm beds available! They were nice, clean, and cheap, so were perfect for us! Exhausted and with the day approaching 4 o'clock we dumped our packs and headed off in search of FOOD! We found a cheap noodle place down one of the many alleyways that make up the Island, found ourselves eating our recent staple: noodle soup! The staff was semi-shocked when Adam asked (in perfect Chinese, of course, prompted by Liv) "you mai you lajiao?" (do you have chilli?) - but soon Adam had a small bowl full of freshly chopped chillis in front of him, which he knew he had to devour, no matter what!

We spent the evening relaxing, with Adam getting his family fix, chatting to his favourite little sister and Liv reading a new book. Eventually we had to face the challenge of finding food, especially given the Island is about three times more expensive than on the Mainland, finally settling for (very average) fried rice and fried noodles - at least Adam's beer was good!

We enjoyed the neon lights looking across to Xiamen, as we wandered around the waterfront and through glowing green trees - it seems nothing is complete over here without neon lights! Even the "Old Catholic Church" is deckd out with a neon cross!!
After the day started in a less than desirable day, it ended pretty well - walking hand in hand, in another beautiful part of the China we have come to love!

Adlbing the car-less Gulang Yu.

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