Day 87 - Wandering the sights of Suzhou

After the dramas we encountered with buses yesterday, we decided to tackle today by foot. Our first port of call for the day was The Master of Nets Garden (we figured we couldn't leave Suzhou without visiting one of the gardens it is famous for), which was beautiful, but to be honest, not that much different from the other gardens we have visited in China. The good thing about this particular garden is that it was small enough that we could see all of it and not feel like we missed something.
After this we got ourselves lost while searching for the Pingtan Museum, however in our lost state we journeyed along Pingjiang Road, which is a cobblestone path that follows one of the city's canals, and got to enjoy the local scenes (while dodging scooters and bicycles!). Perched along both sides of the canal are the slowly deteriorating houses of the locals who go happily about their lives, while tourists mill amongst them. We eventually came across an interesting building we thought we'd explore, only to find out that we had actually found the Museum we had been searching for - it's great that a completely adlibed path can succeed as if you were following a map. The Pingtan Museum is really just a theatre in a beautiful old building, where Pingtan shows of singing and storytelling are performed daily - and we had timed our visit perfectly as a show was due to begin half an hour after we arrived.

After being seated at the back (fine by us as this minimises the eyes on us and keeps them focused on the show) and given our cups of tea, we waited patiently for the show to begin. These shows are a very social occasion, although clearly for the older generation - we were out-aged by at least 50 years! We didn't mind the age gap though as our fellow theatre-goers showed extreme kindness to us and welcomed us warmly. The first man who approached us was slightly taken aback when his comment was understood and replied to in Chinese - though he was also clearly appreciative of our effort. Before long we had a steady stream of visitors, most proclaiming "they won't understand anything" - only for us to be defended by our friends saying "they do understand!". One man happily wandered over to us to explain that he had seen us (the bearded one and his girl) as he rode to his favourite theatre on his bike. The expression on his face illustrated that this conversation might be the highlight of his day. Eventually people told us what we already knew - that this show would be performed in the Suzhou dialect, different to Putonghua that we can semi-understand - and we all laughed together about the fact that we would understand very little, if anything at all!

The storyline completely alluded us, but at one time we were sure the joke that had the audience in hysterics was to do with the size of the male character's family jewels. We basically spent the show enjoying the changing tone of the actors voices, and their ever varying facial expressions, as well as listening to the musical pieces of the show - quite unlike anything you'll hear on MTV! We were stoked that the shrillness of the famous Peking Operas were absent from this show!
After the two hour performance and many cups of tea (all for 80 cents each) we headed for lunch as it was already 3.30pm. We ended up at another Muslim restaurant which we love - the meals tend to have more flavour and variety than other street kitchens - thus our noodle dishes threw a curve ball at our stomachs that are used to the usual grease and soya sauce flavoured noodles.

Back on foot patrol we enjoyed getting to really see Suzhou town as we headed for the North Temple Pagoda - the tallest pagoda south of the Yangzi at nine stories high and adjacent to a 1700 year old temple, which turned out to be one of the most relaxing and enjoying complexes we have been to in a long time. It was especially enjoyable as most of the tourists were headed away just as we were arriving. After gazing up at the height of the pagoda, it was thrilling to know that we were going to get to climb the biggest pagoda we have seen so far! The lack of tourists while climbing the pagoda was very welcome as the staircases were very narrow and it meant we got a clear run to the top, rather than waiting in line like we're used to! If you look really close you can see Liv hanging out the third window. At the top we got sweeping view of the city, and despite it being a clear-ish day, the skyline in the distance was still battling to break through the smog. The battle between sky and smog is a continuous one in China, and with the huge coal towers burning 24/7 it's no surprise that the latter is winning. From all the way at the top, the pagoda seemed even higher than it did from below and had there been any tourists in the complex they would have looked like ants - and we looked forward to enjoying the temple and its surrounds in peace. With all the tourrist gone it was easy for Adam to slip under a fenced of area and get up close and personal with Buddha.
Back down on level ground we spent the next hour wandering through the temple grounds, and although we've seen many gardens and temple this one was a nice change, due to its simplicity - straying away from the maze of pavilions, alleyways and rock sculptures of many others. Making our way to the exit, we were sidetracked by a roaming white rabbit, which was incredibly friendly and easy around us - letting us pat it and feed it by hand. This is a perfect example of when you treat an animal with kindness it has no reason to fear you or anyone else - kind of like the dogs here that roam the streets with natural freedom and cause no one harm, in contrast to the environment in NZ where fences sometimes aren't enough to keep savage dogs out of sight (or out of trouble). Nipping between the closing gates of the complex we were so enjoying, we continued our foot march with dedicated steps towards the markets - determined we would find them tonight! After less than half and hour of wandering, it seemed like this determination had failed as we arrived in the exact same place we had searched in vain for the markets last night. However, with a stroke of fate Liv read a neon hotel sign with the character for the street we were looking for on it. Soon we had a semi direction to head towards, though it took us another half hour of searching through handbag stores and watching a watershow for us to finally locate the elusive markets.

At the markets we set about a frenzied shopping spree, with the knowledge that we only have to lug our packs around for one more day - as well as knowing that travel clothes probably won't do at work. At the end of our night Adam had purchased a pair of trousers that are a mix between 'good' work pants and kick ass grandpa pants (of course 5 sizes too big, according to Liv). Liv walked away with a pair of cool jeans and a handbag that made denying all the other handbags on offer over the last three months worth while (though she's still keeping the bag from mumbles that connects her to home, even though it's broken!).

After finding dumplings for dinner and a McD's ice cream for dessert, we congratulated ourselves when we found the bus we needed to catch by pure happenstance! Ice cold beer in hand we relaxed our last travelling evening away trying to wear off some of the excitement of a great day but the end of a wonderful adlibed tour, well for now, that is ...

Adlibing the night markets, eventually.