Monday, September 3, 2007

Day 86 - A day at Lake Tai on foot

After all the thunder, lightning and rain last night, we woke to a clearer morning and prepared for our day out. Our destination for today was Lake Tai, and more specifically Dong Shan (East Mountain). Lake Tai is a fresh water lake which is home to more than 90 islands, including Dong Shan, and is famous for its eroded rocks, similar to which we have had the pleasure of viewing in traditional gardens all over China. Dong Shan, which is positioned on Lake Tai's southern shores, is famous for its gardens - however we are slightly over visiting gardens, no matter how beautiful, so instead we spent the day wandering to nowhere specific on the island.

Deciding to do something out of the ordinary, we accepted a taxi driver's offer to drive us part way around the lake to save us some walking time and give us more time to explore the lake and the villages on its edge. The taxi driver thought he was being very clever in charging us only a few quai to take us to a place beside the lake with no particular attraction - hoping to lure us into paying a lot more to take us back to the tourist spots in the opposite direction. Little did he know that this secluded place he dropped he had dropped us was exactly where we had wanted to end up, for this is the adlibing way. Soon we were wandering along the lake by foot power, which we are much more accustomed to, and we got to slip down and explore the local fruit orchids that make up a large proportion of the landscape. Here we got to watch ferrets (we think) playing together amongst the trees and walk along small, aging jetties that hover over the lake. Continuing our adlibing adventure, we found a cliffside spot, where we feasted on crackers and cookies, and took in the semi-disturbing view of enormous power pylons planted directly through the lake, creating a stepping stone route to other islands on the lake. To the other side, below the lush mountains, we had a great view of small villages settled on the edge of the lake, with local boats sheltered in small canals that led off the lake. After almost being attacked by local dogs on one of our ventures down a small alleyway, where grandparents rushed to get their grandkids to show off the foreigners to (it's not common for tourists to venture away from the usual attractions) we decided to board a local bus and see where it took us. Unfortunately, the bus ride wasn't a long one, and we were soon dropped off in the midst of locals pleading with us to hop aboard one of their motorboats for a lake cruise. Adam had earlier laughed at the boats' attempts for cornering at speeds, knowing too well what speed is - there's nothing like a real Hamilton turn!

Instead of accepting their offers, we walked in the opposite direction from all the other tourists and headed along the road we had just come along - but enjoying it at a slower pace. Before long the bus we had hopped off only 15 minutes earlier made its return trip past us, and given the increasing rain we used the Chinese tactic of waving down any bus going your way to give our feet a rest. Soon enough we were going on our way back to the bus station to catch our next bus - we like the fact that it only costs us $1.50 for the two adlibers to make an hour journey back to town.

On our bus trip back home we sputtered over one of the massive bridges that span the Grand Canal, this provided us with a great opportunity to gaze upon the gigantic tug boats hauling their loads, some sunk so low to the waters edge that it splashed over the decks. It was so easy to imagione the canal in its hay day for in reality it hads never stoped poroviding for the towns that surround it.

Back in Suzhou, it was already almost 5pm and since breakfast all we had eaten were snacks, so we decided to have an early tea. Walking our street, we came across a Korean restaurant and Liv finally relented to Adam's desire to try Korean food. Much to Liv's pleasure the food was great (though the kimchi still doesn't go down well with her) and Adam loved having real spicy food once again.

Our night was spent searching for the night markets, which consisted of a bus ride to we don't know where - although where we ended up provided us with a spectacular view of Chinese buildings in all their illuminated glory reflecting off the gorgeous canals that trapse their way through the city. We found ourselves in the Old Town of Suzhou and spent some time wandering the streets aimlessly until the time came to catch the last bus. Back in our side of town we munched on a typical meal of noodles and rice while we chatted the hours away until it was time to pick up a beer and head home.

Adlibing Lake Tai, our way.

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