Today we woke at 5am the night a blanket of black and the stars still out. We waited in the still air for our boat guide to arrive and take us in her Zhucao ("Pig Trough") boat to the nearby Island (but as far as we can see, it is just the penninsula - further comfirmed when we saw the sign saying we were staying on Lige Island, which is also a penninsula!) to watch the sunrise. We paddled across a glassy lake that was like riding on a black mirror, the shadows of the mountains creating a very mystic picture in the lake. The paddle was a blissful and relaxing 30 minute ride, that was turned into a show as our smiling guide launched into traditional Mosuo song - absolutely beautifully!
Clambering up a steep path cut into the hillside, we got ourselves in a prime postion for the sunrise - one of the good things about being the first to rise and the first up the hill meant we got first pick! There were many many boats arriving - some too late to see the sun rise begin. We enjoyed the next hour on the hilltop, taking way to many photos, before retreating back to bed to let Liv sleep! 
When we woke, we gobbled down noodles and pancakes (an interesting mix we know) for breakfast, before heading to walk around the lake to find a spot to relax the day away ...The walk began on a defined track that soon disappeared and we found ourselves battling along thorny terrain predominantly guided by bulls! We soon met the bulls - a little too close at one point for Liv when backed against the cliff a bull came pushing its way through!
Eventually we gave up on the hazardous paths and began wading along the edge of the lake, a path that provided its own stresses as we noticed the first of many shredded snake skins .. the snakes came later!
We soon found a nice cosy spot, where we spent the day reading and chatting the hours away - exactly how Liv wanted to spend her brithday (lazily, that is)! We got into our togs, but only got knee deep in the water, before Liv spotted a water-snake and we decided that just sitting on the lake-edge was close enough!
After hours lazing in the sun, watching the lake and the boats pass by we headed back, but this time avoiding the track (where we would no doubt have to fight the bulls again) and waded around the lake edge keeping a close eye on the snakes in the shallow water, where they tend to hang in the seaweed.It wasn't until we got back to the hostel that we were told the snakes were "ok", and even better there were not many around the hostel. This is our heavenly place of abode, nestled away amongst the Chinese green:
This was all Adam needed to hear and in the blink of an eye he dove into the pristine lake (despite the rain and the impending lighting and thunder storm). 
Seaweed lines the lake edge, but about 5 metres in there is a shelf that literally drops into the depths (the deepest point is 93m) of the crystal-clear lake.With the storm in full force we abandoned our plans for further expeditions around the lake, spending the night in the wonderful restaurant where we watched the lake light up with lightening flashes and listened to the lake lapping the shore - Liv even got a candle-lit dinner for her birthday as the power went out early in the night.
After chatting and exchangin ideas and information with an Irish couple who had just arrived, we retired for an early night. The early night also meant Liv could finish the book "The Lost Horizon" she had borrowed from the hostel before leaving tomorrow.
Adlibing into Liv's 24th year ... (in paradise).
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